Every year, a colony of penguins returns to this small island off Otago

Just before dusk in late spring, the sea off Otago takes on a glassy calm. Then, in the distance, a series of dark shapes break the surface — small, quick, and purposeful. They’re not fish or seals. They’re penguins, heading home after months away at sea.

The island few visit

The colony’s destination is a rocky island a few kilometres offshore. Uninhabited by humans, it’s accessible only by boat — and only in the right conditions. From the water, the island looks inhospitable: jagged cliffs, windswept slopes, and no obvious shelter. But tucked into crevices and low scrub are the nesting sites that these penguins return to year after year.

“It’s like clockwork,” says a local tour operator. “Around the same week each year, they start arriving. First a few, then dozens.”

Why they come back

The penguins — thought to be a mix of little blue penguins and occasional yellow-eyed penguins — are loyal to their nesting grounds. Scientists say this is a survival strategy: returning to a known, successful site increases the odds of breeding success.

Possible reasons for this island’s enduring appeal include:

  • Lack of predators: The absence of dogs, stoats, and cats gives chicks a fighting chance.
  • Proximity to rich feeding grounds: The surrounding waters are full of small fish and squid.
  • Shelter from storms: Natural rock formations shield nests from the worst weather.

An uncertain future

While the colony is thriving for now, climate change and shifts in ocean temperatures could alter their feeding patterns. Warmer seas can reduce the abundance of the fish they depend on, forcing them to travel further and expend more energy.

DOC and local conservation groups keep a discreet watch on the island, limiting human interference while monitoring population trends.

Then vs. now

Past decadeCurrent status
Stable colony sizeSlight increase in breeding pairs
Minimal human contactOccasional eco-tour visits
Few conservation measuresActive predator monitoring

A quiet wonder

Because access is limited, most people will never see the island up close. Yet for those who have, the sight of dozens of penguins waddling up the shore at sunset is unforgettable.

“It’s one of the purest things you’ll ever witness,” says the tour operator. “They’ve been doing it long before we were here, and hopefully they’ll keep doing it long after.”

David Stewart Avatar

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